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scientific nature of jewellery
2009 | installation / interpretation | commissioned by Vienna Design Week
interpretation #2discolouring experiment: permanently dousing necklace
chemistry necklacefinished necklace after the sulphidizing process
growing necklace: installation setup with tools and breeding glassesgrowing necklace: installation setup with tools and growing-glasses
growing necklacegrowing necklace
growing glassesdetail of the growing-glasses
view of the whole installationview of the whole installation
detail of experimentsdetail of the discolouring experiments and setup
sketchsketch of the three parts of the installation

Invited by the Vienna Design Week 09, to participate in that year’s Passionswege*, this project was realized together with Rozet&Fischmeister Court Jewelers. Famous for their silverware, they recently began to focus, once again, more on fine jewellery.

Researching into hand-crafted jewellery and all its productions steps, it became obvious that the making of jewellery requires much training and specification as well as patience, careful planning, love for perfect details, and an immense amount of knowledge in materials. This finding was translated into an experimental set up with the title 'the scientific nature of jewellery'. Consisting of three parts the installation interprets the profession of goldsmith from various angles and opens up towards new inputs.

Interpretation&Experiment #1: growing necklace
To make a beautiful and accurately-made piece of jewellery, it needs time, mindfulness and patience. - Similar to a grain, which slowly develops and becomes the plant.
In this experiment, gemstones are replaced by grains. Tenderly cultivated, taken care of and shaped, the seed grows gradually up, becoming the actual “piece of jewellery”. The owner can cultivate and form the plant to his imagination and experiment with various species.

Interpretation&Experiment #2: discolouring necklace
Knowledge about material and its physical and chemical properties, enable to broaden the boarders of classic craftsmanship.
In this second experiment a silver necklace is doused, again and again, in sulphide liquid. After some time, black graphics emerge on the necklace. In this case, the silhouettes of two children become visible. – A reinterpretation of classical amulets showing the ones we love.

Original necklace by Rozet&Fischmeister
It requires many working steps and fine-tuning until a classic piece of jewellery is finished. The piece is melted, hit, wrought, soldered, edged, polished …
To emphasize the importance of details, beauty and precision, an original piece by Rozet&Fischmeister is examined through magnifying glasses.

* Passionwege is a project format of Vienna Design Week. Every Year ten emerging designers (national and international) are invited to collaborate in an experimental project with Vienna-based companies.

material:silver, wood, diverse materials
dimension:about 200 x 45 x 80 cm


vienna design week
rozet & fischmeister